Day 1’s Tarangire National Park, with its jungle-like, lush green woodlands, and ancient baobab trees, was the complete opposite of what Serengeti is known for: vast, open horizons, and sweeping savannas that seem to stretch endlessly.
Day 2 of our 5-day safari game drive involved a lot of ups, downs, and bumpy drives.
Our first stop was at the majestic viewpoint of the Ngorongoro National Park. From up there, we had a panoramic view into the crater, home to thousands of animals and even a soda lake (a highly saline lake) called Lake Magadi, mostly referred to by the Maasai as Lake Makati. Spotting it from above gave us a first taste of what lay ahead on Day 5 before we continued our journey toward the famous plains of Serengeti.
The roads there were long and bumpy, and I suggest taking a mask with you to protect yourself from the dust. To put it into perspective, my white windbreaker turned yellowish brown dust by the end of the trip.
Most 4×4 safari vehicles aren’t equipped with air conditioning, so a portable fan is also a good idea. Regardless of the long and uncomfortable ride, we had plenty of surprises along the way, from the Maasai tribal villages, to the dazzles of zebras, and to the glimpses of the Great Wildebeest Migration (NatGeo fans would know).
Seeing wildebeests from afar for the first time was surprising for it seemed that they were following a sort of invisible natural feeding line. The photo above is zoomed in (thanks to our 70-300mm telephoto lens), but to the naked eye, it was just a blur of dark grey stretching across the horizon.
The symbiotic relationship between wildebeest and zebras was fascinating to watch. For every stretch of wildebeest, you’d find zebras scattered among them, a survival partnership, since zebras eat the taller grasses while wildebeests follow with the shorter shoots. Together, their combined senses help keep predators at bay.
Now, circling back to the Maasai Tribe Villages. To be honest, we were more than interested in seeing them up close and taking part in their culture. However, the tradition of performing for tourists did put us off.
It would have been amazing, but it may have been exploitative. It might have even helped their community financially, but it wasn’t for us. Up until now, we still don’t know how to feel about this, so that time, we decided to cut it from our original plan.
Our next stop was the Olduvai Gorge Monument, often called the ‘Cradle of Mankind.’ This is where the archaeologists Leakeys uncovered fossils and tools that pushed back our understanding of early human history, with a small museum nearby showcasing some of these incredible finds.
This is also where I took my long-awaited restroom break, and I know you might be wondering about the toilet situation. For the entire 5 days, there were only one or two proper restroom spots throughout the day, including the tourist office during registration or the picnic lunch sites, so for those like myself with a small bladder, it might be a problem.
Note that your driver is not allowed to stop whenever, wherever because you are technically in the middle of an open Zoo, which meant that I had to pace myself when it came to my liquid intake. Thankfully, it wasn’t much of a problem. We did have to tell him in advance so when the roads were clear and he felt that the area was safe against lions and other beasts, he allowed us to come out of the vehicle (you aren’t normally otherwise) and experience the bushman toilet break behind the 4×4. My advise, always have toilet paper and/or wet wipes on hand, and a sanitizer spray for after.
Continuing westward, we finally reached the famous Serengeti National Park. I have to admit, the beginning was underwhelming, but considering how massive Serengeti is, 30,000 square kilometers, or 19x the size of my current city of Bangkok, it was understandable.
Throughout the 5-day game drive, my mood would shift dramatically, from excitement for what’s to come in the morning, to hunger and snacking, to waiting for animal sightings, to preparing to quickly stand up on my chair fast because this 5’2″ lady is not tall enough to reach the opened pop-up roof for:
- First sighting of a Thomson’s gazelle, marked by its distinct black stripe
- Giraffes munching on trees right by the road
- More dazzles of zebras, tails swishing in sync
- My first look at Cape buffalo
- Wildebeests, both alive and in carcass form; the full cycle of the wild
- Pink flamingos with their famous downward-curved beaks in the water
- A variety of other birdlife scattered across the Serengeti
Not only did my mood shift, so did Serengeti’s weather, from scorching hot throughout the day to a rainstorm later in the afternoon. It was breathtaking to see the grey skies and the vastness as far as the eye can see. The rain was still manageable in the beginning. Our guide/driver was still doing his due diligence, searching for wildlife.
Here and there, he would ask us what we wanted to see, and we animatedly recited all the animals that we wanted to find. How it normally worked during our game drives was we would try to find the animals ourselves, but our eyes (mostly mine) weren’t built to spot their camouflage.
He would look out of the window himself, but he was mostly on his radio, communicating with other guides who had spotted animals. Most of the time, he would surprise us and keep us guessing, but by then, we knew that something exciting was up ahead when he started speeding up the car to get to the location. One thing that came to mind though is what landmarks do they use because I cannot, for the life of me, figure out how he got to the actual locations.
As soon as he sped up, I got my camera ready, propped myself up on the chair, and clung to the railings because driving on dirt roads ain’t a walk in the park. It was raining already, so the pop-up roof was a no-go this time. It didn’t matter because the window was enough.
The animal that we were looking for? A lone Rhino. Yes, that grey blob is a Rhino. I couldn’t even distinguish him with my naked eye, especially behind those tall grasses. We were ecstatic at first, but he was way too far. Looking back, this was the only time I wished for a super-telephoto lens, and the only time we felt disappointed.
On day 1, we were lucky when the cheetah, who was as far as this Rhino, gave us a front-row show by walking closer and speeding up in front of our 4×4. Today wasn’t our lucky day, or so we thought.
But that was the least of our worries.
As we were on our way to look for more animal sightings, the roads got even more muddy, and our worst-case scenario happened: we got stuck in the mud. The beauty about this is that these drivers, from other companies, help each other out, so the car behind us pushed us and we were able to drive… but that was only for a few metres, until we got stuck again and again and again.
The first time, it was funny. But the moment it kept happening again and again, we started to freak out. A lot of the 4×4’s passed us, only one stayed in the end as it was around 5PM already. Online sources reveal that the gates close at 6PM and no one is allowed, unless registered early mornings for the hot air balloon transports (wait for Day 3). After a lot of tries, they ended up connecting a rope and pulling us, and spoiler alert: we were finally freed from the retched mud.
The rain stopped, we were the only two vehicles left, and our surprise furry friends apparently found the roads safer and (we guess) drier to walk on.
It was thrilling, it was an experience, and in retrospect, it was a blessing.
Who knows? We wouldn’t have had this unique up close and personal experience if we hadn’t been stuck in the mud and been the only vehicles left. The lioness momma was right under our noses that I can hear her breathe. I even fought the urge to take my hand out and feel the denseness of her fur. When the two lion cubs came out, with their adorable faces, my heart melted.. and to hear them squeak/roar, was an indescribable feeling in itself!
It felt like we stopped breathing. Time stopped moving. It was electrifying. It was exhilarating. It was all the wonderful adjectives that you can think of.
The cubs were adorable to watch, bumping each other and playing around, and screeching at one another; one even surprised us by carrying something in his mouth. Was it a snake? A part of a tire? A wet branch? We will never know.
I had happy tears in my eyes. That was a moment that we will never forget. We stayed longer, of course, with our guide patiently driving backwards to let us relish the feeling much longer until we were the last ones in the area.
Of course, we remembered the selfie when they were much further down.
A few more meters drive, we reached our final sighting of this eventful day: the gentle giants. And its gentle babies! To be able to see an elephant calf in the wild is another one ticked off my long wishlist.
Yet, the surprises didn’t end there. This evening, we slept in our first Serengeti lodge, in the middle of the national park, and in the midst of all the wild animals. So technically, we were never supposed to be the (last) ones out after all!
As this is my first glamping experience, thought it would be fitting to do my first ever room tour so bear with me and the solar lighting.
This was such a unique experience. We saw gazelles bopping about around the camp, our last last sighting. We heard lions roaring while preparing for dinner and in the middle of the night. We did face a lot of insects, but only in the public areas, such as the dining/charging tents. Mosquito patches and DEET repellant are a must!
And yes, there were no charging spots inside the rooms since we were in the middle of nowhere, and they used solar panels for electricity. Thus, a designated charging station. There was a hot shower, though, so that was good news!
We weren’t allowed to go out at night without the assistance of the staff, so we had to use the walkie-talkie to call them. Apart from the early wake-up call, I recall it was 4AM in the cold African savanna, we had a very good night’s sleep.
Thank you, Serengeti, for the rain showers and our private moments with lions and elephants. Day 3 was a bird’s-eye view of the national park, my first-ever hot air balloon ride, so stay tuned for that!
BONUS TIP
Most people are unaware that you can experience this dream trip on any budget.
As the designated researcher/booking agent on all our trips, it gave me an edge in the knowledge that I was able to gather throughout the long, arduous process. I love it though! Don’t get me wrong. Because of this, plus info we got from our guide, here are the types of Safari excursions that I know of.
Three types of Safaris:
- Public campsites
This means staying in tents overnight, on designated camp grounds. It sounds wonderful, right? But this is camping on another level. Your guide will be staying with you, but you cannot ever go out at night. It is pitch dark outside, and yes, predators roam freely. Every rustle, every crack of a branch feels amplified, reminding you that this isn’t just a camping trip, it’s the wiiiiild. The public toilets? Often a quick walk away, but at night, it’s a strict no-go without your guide. So you learn to ‘plan ahead.’
Everything else is the same of course, joining other tourists searching for the Big Five.
I wasn’t even aware of this as an option until our guide pointed out a camping area on the way back from Ngorongoro. He used to do it in the beginning of his career and hated every moment of it. - Mid-range camping
These would involve sleeping in semi-permanent or permanent tented camps. You will still sleep in canvas tents, but with proper beds, private bathrooms (yours, but a separate unit outside your tent), and meals prepared for you. You get the bush feel with a bit more comfort and security. - Upper mid-range lodges/tented camps
These offer en-suite bathrooms, hot water, electricity, and proper dining setups, such as buffet or set menus. These strike a great balance of comfort and the authentic bush feel.
We chose this for the authentic safari experience of going through rigorous game drives while we are young and able, but still get as much comfort as possible; and this was the best option for our now spoiled selves.
Essentially, this meant better lodges, better food, and our favourite add-on: a private vehicle experience. Having the car to ourselves gave us full reign of all the best viewing spots, without needing to look over strangers’ shoulders or commiting to small talk on the daily. - Luxury lodges/tented camps
You fly in and do not have to go through the dusty Serengeti roads. From the air, you land directly inside or near the park, stepping off the plane into a world of all-inclusive comfort. Here, you’re welcomed with champagne, guided to suites with private decks and plunge pools, and treated to fine dining under the stars. Game drives are still part of the experience, but the pace is unhurried; it’s more about exclusivity, service, and soaking in the Serengeti without compromise.
Unfortunately, I cannot provide the price range as this depends on a number of variables, including the duration of your stay, the national parks you want to tour, and the additional options you choose to take, such as the private vehicle and hot air balloon on our end. There are plenty of tours where you can join others so that is a more economical option. To begin your process, I suggest searching on TripAdvisor for rates and contacting the companies yourself. To know ours, contact me!